Oriol's Thanksgiving 3-Pack
Orange wine is consistently one of my favorite things to bring out at gatherings - people's eyes light up when they see that golden hue! But whereas some skin contact wines can be so tannic as to be unapproachable, Valli Unite Bianco Cortese NV (Piedmont, Italy) is the perfect light and breezy orange to get your stuffy uncle doing backflips! 20-year old vines, clay soil, and 3 days fermenting on skins give this one enough texture, complexity, and mineral panache to delight both on its own and alongside a wide range of food options.
With the tannin-averse now comfortably accommodated, the tannin-amenable can pop open a juicy and spritzy ruby-tinted liter bottle of Poderi Cellario 'La Grinozza' Vino Rosso Pet Nat NV (Piedmont, Italy), a pet-nat (that means natural AND bubbly!) made with 100% Grignolino. I get a smooth silty terroir with plenty of tart red apple skin tannins that let this wine resonate powerfully with medium-to-bold thanksgiving fare.
The tannic train continues with Can Tutusaus 'Ona' Negre 2021 (Penedes, Spain) a characterful, biodynamic Marselan from Catalonia that shows ample structure and abundant dark red fruit. With a balanced acidity and silky but assertive tannins—tamed after a mere 15 minutes of air—this drinks almost like a Nebbiolo and will pair beautifully with heartier dishes, from the big bird (smoked turkey, anyone?) through the richest pies.
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